Et Tu, Crouton?

Yes, Chef. Hail Caesar. Eat me. Incubate me.

Dec 13, 2024
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  • Yes, Chef, curated by Zoe Lukov, and its affiliated restaurant concept, Black Caesar, are open at Water Street Projects through December 15.

“Is the decolonial dinner Friday or Saturday?” I overhear, passing Claes Oldenburg’s dolphin-sized corkscrew in the freshly minted exhibition space of what, per the New York Times, “might be the first ‘it’ building.” This is WSA (Water Street Associates), the midsize 1983 Fox & Fowle–designed skyscraper and former AIG headquarters, whose Instagram now boasts proof of visits from numerous Knowleses. Emily Ratajkowski recently hosted her “Après-Met” party here—a “flamboyant affair,” according to Vogue, where guests in “free-spirited and spectacularly slinky” outfits “sent air kisses across the mirrored dance floor.” Newly restored to cocaine-boom splendor by tax-haven trendsetter Gabriella Khalil, this wonderland of postmodern décor and hypnotic contradictions offers a moribund office culture one mountainous bump: making workspace into a scene. Maybe EmRata has your stapler.

According to the project’s Ma…

Moze Halperin could use the roughage.

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