Discreet Drinks

Remarkably crushable for something so complex

That Witch Ales You opened in Chinatown in October 2020. It might have been a cursed time to set up shop, but TWAY has lasted until now, serving up a small but varied roster of beers featuring exotic fruits and roots. The Ginger IPA delicately balances the bright bite of the ginger with structured, herbal hoppy notes. It’s remarkably crushable for being so complex. The Lychee Red, likable by even non–beer drinkers, melds a tempered, not-too-sweet note of lychee with biscuitlike malt. On the darker side, the Coconut Potion is that rare porter that’s actually drinkable on a hot day, but don’t let the coconutty sweetness fool you: she clocks in at 9.5 percent ABV.

Tucked into a southern corner of Chinatown, TWAY invites you inside with an unassuming chalk sign and glass-paneled door labeled with its logo: a witch’s hat. The cozy space is mostly occupied by brewing tanks, and if you sit at one of the indoor barrels-as-tables, you can play a board game amid Halloween decor: a spindly broom here, a glittery bottle of powdered skull there. Visit during nice weather, and you can head to the backyard to sip your brews in the shade (and, if you’d like, feet up in a hammock).

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